by Curlan Campbell
Visiting Africa has always been a lifelong dream for me, but I never imagined it could become a reality because of how expensive travel can be.
According to nowgrenada, however, everything changed when I received a call about an opportunity to cover the African Export-Import Bank (Afrexim Bank) 32nd Annual Meetings in Abuja, Nigeria. This opportunity had just become available, and I had only about 3 weeks to gather the necessary travel documentation, including applying for a Nigerian e-visa, which cost around US$193.
I quickly seized the opportunity and stayed in constant communication with Asma Omar from the Travel Services Administration Department at Afrexim Bank, as well as Nora Abu-Alam, the Event Executive at Brand Comms. They were responsible for coordinating travel and accommodation logistics in Nigeria for over 140 journalists representing more than 80 countries.
While the process was certainly not the easiest, I must admit I encountered more issues applying for a J-1 visa to enter the United States, particularly with the online application. For anyone wishing to know about the process: if you are travelling through the UK, you must apply for the UK ETA, which allows stays of up to 6 months for tourism, business, study, or family visits. This will cost you around £16 and is typically processed within one day.
Once I paid the necessary fees and applied for the required documentation to travel from Grenada to Nigeria via the UK, it was time to embark on my journey, which began on 21 June 2025. Prior to travelling, I conducted my own research into Nigeria, including trying to understand the currency (naira) and how it compares to the US dollar. However, no amount of research could have prepared me for the intricacies of exchanging US currency in Nigeria — but more on that later.
After a 16-hour layover at the Sofitel in London Heathrow Airport, I boarded a British Airways flight bound for Nigeria on Monday, 22 June at 22:25. After 6 hours of flying, I landed at Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport in Abuja. Upon disembarking the plane, I experienced an overwhelming sense of emotion — goosebumps covered my body as I felt I had arrived in what felt like home. I grounded my feet on ancestral soil.
One aspect of the trip that was not enjoyable was having to apply for a Landing Card 48 hours before my flight. This application had to be submitted via the Nigeria Immigration Service e-Portal. Unfortunately, I received an email stating that my application had expired — 4 times — 3 of which occurred in front of a Nigerian immigration officer at the airport. Coupled with poor internet connectivity, this made the entry process quite frustrating. However, it was eventually resolved once I was given access to a stable internet connection. After that, all I had to do was present my passport and explain my reason for visiting Nigeria.
Next, I proceeded to baggage collection and transportation to our hotel, the Abuja Continental. The atmosphere in Nigeria hit me hard — the commotion of being approached by numerous taxi drivers and the sight of heavily armed airport security officers with assault rifles and machine guns was overwhelming. I wasn’t expecting such a frantic scene as delegates were rushed from the airport to their destinations. The security presence was unlike what I was accustomed to, but you could say the same for places like the United States and, to a lesser extent, the UK. Thankfully, the team at AAM Transportation was there to connect us with our designated driver.
After spending the entire day settling into my hotel, I was treated to lunch the next day at the Afreximbank African Trade Centre (AATC). It was my first time tasting the popular Nigerian jollof rice, accompanied by Nigerian eggplant (also called garden egg in Nigeria) stew and smoked fish. I also tried Nigerian beans cake, popularly known as Akara, served with Pap and topped with Peak milk, a type of condensed milk. This is an average Nigerian breakfast, which costs N9,000 and, if converted, would cost US$5.87. As a pescatarian, I couldn’t sample all the delicious foods Nigeria has to offer, but what I did eat was excellent, although a bit spicy. The dishes in Nigeria are bursting with flavour and heat!
The hospitality of the Nigerian people was second to none, and I was pleasantly surprised by the number of businesses owned and controlled by Nigerians, including mega shopping malls, hotels, houses, and rental apartments. However, for many average Nigerians — even those with high-profile jobs — it seems challenging to live a typical middle-class lifestyle. In fact, careers that would place someone among the top earners elsewhere in the world often do not provide the same financial security at home. I learned and observed that the harsh economic realities in the country contribute to a significant disparity between the cost of living and salary earnings, with wages not aligning with expenses. This evident mismatch is a major challenge for individuals and families, severely affecting their ability to afford basic needs and maintain a decent standard of living, which is universally recognised and measurable. However, one source of consolation for me in this troubling situation is the resilience I can clearly see in the average Nigerian; Nigerians are remarkably adaptable and strong in the face of adversity.
Nigeria, which was under British control from the early 1900s, struggled to gain full independence, eventually achieving it in 1960. Colonisation disrupted the region’s indigenous governance structures, which were primarily led by various ethnic groups and empires, including the Yoruba, Igbo, the Oyo Empire, and the Hausa city-states. Governance in southern empires, notably the Yoruba, Igbo, and Efik, was handled by local chiefs and traditional rulers, while the northern states — being a conservative region as a result of the religion Islam — operated under a centralised Islamic theocratic system. The Northern people were completely obedient people with devotion and reverence for their leaders, hence, the known slang to indicate obedience to wit “Mallam ya ce” interpreted as “Mallam has said and instructed.” Now, as a result of this obedience to constituted authority, the British Colonial rule in the North was largely indirect; it didn’t disturb this obedience and used the Mallams and Emirs whilst preserving the authority of the emirs and integrating Islamic legal and administrative systems into the colonial framework. This preserved structure contributed to the region’s relative stability and the mind-blowing success of the indirect rule in the North, but also reinforced hierarchical governance and slowed the spread of Western education compared to the South. This obedience and slow spread of Western education is still visible in the lives of the average northerner whom I encountered and related with mostly in Abuja.
Even today, remnants of colonial influence and the effects of exploitation can be observed in Nigeria. It perplexes me that, despite the country having enough food to sustain itself and infrastructure developing at a rapid pace, many people still live in poverty and homelessness. This situation exists alongside ongoing development and an economy that is expected to grow by 3.3%, according to the World Bank.
Notably, despite the eradication of polio, many Nigerians in the city are still unable to walk due to the lasting effects of the disease. These individuals often use makeshift skateboards to get around, serving as a poignant reminder of the polio pandemic that once ravaged the region.
As I explored the streets of Abuja, my guide, Fukky Danladi Mashat — an attorney and businesswoman — shared insights about significant events in the country’s history. She explained the rationale behind relocating the capital from Lagos to Abuja. In a city where 50% of the population is Muslim and 40% Christian, she also highlighted the cultural nuances among the various ethnic groups that call Abuja home.
Our first stop was the Jabi Lake Mall, situated near the man-made Jabi Lake, which is renowned for its recreational activities. On the third day, I was given a tour of Wuse Market (being one of the major markets in Abuja), a bustling vendor’s market where you can find a variety of items, housewares and foods, including fruits and vegetables. The market sells garments, shoes, jewellery (with certain parts of the market carved for buying and selling of all types of gold), and even offers hairbraiding services by beauticians who are readily available. Next, we visited the Thought Pyramid Art Centre located on Libreville Crescent in Wuse II, Abuja. There, I purchased a Benin bronze statue and explored various artistic expressions, including paintings and sculptures of humans and animals made from recycled scrap metal. These remarkable works of art are a testament to the creativity of Nigerian artists.
To understand what it’s like to trade and do business in Nigeria, it’s important to grasp the culture that influences commerce, especially on the streets. It can be surprising to see individuals on the roadside flagging down cars to exchange currencies. Before you start negotiating to exchange US dollars for naira, it’s crucial to know that the value of the US dollar decreases when given in smaller denominations, compared to $100 bills. I still don’t fully understand the reasoning behind this. Be aware that the official exchange rate is approximately US$1 to 1,535.51 Nigerian naira, but on the black market, rates can vary significantly!
Let’s talk about traffic. Driving around the city, it seems that many Nigerians do not strictly follow traffic rules, which leads to congestion and tempers flaring. It was quite amusing to see traffic wardens, armed with batons, striking the cars of drivers who defied the rules.
On my last night in Abuja, I visited several restaurants and bars in the city that never sleeps. I was accompanied by some off-duty members of the Nigerian Police Force, whom I had connected with through a mutual friend, Dr Mabweh Mashat, a Nigerian clinical instructor at St George’s University (SGU).
It was a bittersweet moment returning to Grenada. As I headed to the airport, I managed to sneak in one last photo at the Abuja City Gate, a monumental structure marking the entrance to the city. Upon arriving at the airport, I quickly checked into a domestic flight with Air Peace, which was en route to Lagos. From there, I caught another Air Peace flight to London, UK.
During my journey through the airport, immigration officers found it unusual to see a man who appeared either Nigerian or Ghanaian holding a Grenadian passport. I was questioned extensively before finally being allowed to proceed.
Despite that, my first visit to Nigeria was amazing. I was able to immerse myself in the culture, meet numerous people, and forge lasting friendships. I encourage anyone visiting Nigeria to be prepared for a wonderful experience — because the Africa portrayed on television is not the same as the Africa you will encounter in person.
