by ELS
Boko Haram, Isis, kidnappings, armed robberies, corruption… All of these unpleasant things happen in Nigeria. But not to us – we are covered by The Lebanese Network! Let me explain.
Getting the visa for Nigeria was difficult and expensive, but so be it – let’s just think the embassy clerk needs the money more than we do. The more challenging part of Nigeria is probably being there. All the warnings taken into consideration, one would rather conclude not to go there at all. But the country is on our route towards South Africa (and beyond), so we go through it.
Against all odds, the immigration procedure at the Nigerian border was surprisingly easy and quick: an entry stamp in our passports, vaccination check, a customs stamp in the Carnet de Passage for Beest and that was it. No bribes, no trouble, no time loss. Only 50 meters further the myth became reality: the first check point resulted in a so-called veterinary check for Bixx. His passport was asked for this time. Immediate reaction: “Your dog cannot go into Nigeria without a permit”. Yeah right. Next comment: “You cannot bring a castrated dog into our country”. I was driving that day so first of all they didn’t like a tiny woman holding the steering wheel of a truck, let alone that same person had castrated a male dog! Question to me: “Who is the leader of this team?” This is where they refused to interact with me and the boys (Marc & Nick) took over. Sexist suckers! Two hours and endless discussions later, we moved on, having paid nothing. After this we had to stop another 35 times on a stretch of 50 km into Lagos. 35 check points on 50 km. Every single one of the uniformed officials asked us for money. We didn’t spend a dime.
So what has all of this to do with the title of this post? Wait, I am almost getting to it.
Arrived in Lagos we needed to find a secure spot to park Beest. Wild camping is just simply not an option in Nigeria – if you want keep living and keep your belongings that is. We drove through the city looking for a hotel hoping to be allowed to stay on the parking lot for a small amount of money as we often do. I saw The Avenue Suites on the map and told Marc to go there. When I went in to ask, Elias – a young white man – came and asked me what I needed. I explained our case and he immediately said we were more welcome. When I asked him how much it would cost us he replied, smiling: “Oh don’t worry, I will pay yoú. I am Lebanese.” So there we were, in a beautiful hotel next to the beach, sipping a beer next to the swimming pool.
And as if that were not enough, the chef brought a beautiful plate of fresh fruit to us while chatting inside the truck with a customer of the hotel, who was interested in our stories! That same evening Elias, the manager, came checking on us saying we were invited to join him and his friends at the pool. After a drink and shisha while telling our stories, we got ready for bed in the truck (Nick & Marjolijn were going to sleep on the floor), when all of a sudden Elias stood there with 2 room keys… Saying we were his guests in the hotel and we should definitely have breakfast in the morning. Flabbergasted we took our stuff and went to spend the night in the hotel.
Still don’t get The Lebanese Network? Wait for it…
The next day we arranged our visas for Cameroon (once again it cost us more than it should have, but… arguing brings nothing – believe me I tried and they called the security guard to have me removed) and had a wonderful sushi dinner in the hotel.
Not that difficult to keep your lady happy: sushi and wine will do!
We sat with the boys again at night when Elias said “Let me spoil you once again” and went to get new room keys for us. Such kindness was just beyond our imagination!
On our 3rd day in Lagos we were interviewed by Ikechi Uko (a major player in West African tourism) and his media friends resulting in an article in The Sun newspaper of Nigeria!
After this interesting talk we were done in Lagos and said goodbye to Elias & friends to move on.
This is where the Network comes in. Elias immediately arranged our next safe place to stay in Ore, at the compound of the company his Lebanese cousin Karim works for. Some 8 guards were there to insure our security!
At the company compound in Oreimage
From there we drove to Port Harcourt in the Niger Delta. After 12 hours on the road we arrived to find Fady, Joseph and Lucien – all of them Lebanese and from the same village in Lebanon. They too received us with great enthusiasm and hospitality and wouldn’t accept we pay for dinner nor sleep in the truck and tent. Although we were complete strangers to them they insisted on sleeping in the empty beds of their children (which are in Lebanon at the moment). Oh, and we had to stay another day because they were going to have a barbecue.
Marc & Nick joined the guys for a little dribble
@ Joseph’s and Lucien’s for a wonderful lunch, prepared by their private cook Basile
The Lebanese compound in Port Harcourt
Our last stop in Nigeria was Calabar, the only place we didn’t spend within The Lebanese Network 🙂 But we got to visit and spend a night at the ‘Drill Ranch’, a rehabilitation center for Drill Monkeys and Chimpanzees!
Just a little Monday traffic jam…
Just a little Monday traffic jam…
